The Handbook

Get the
Perfect Fit

If the first rule of real estate is location, then the first rule of clothing is fit. With disposable fast fashion, and the speed and simplicity of next-day e-commerce delivery, it's easy to feel like style should be effortless. But like anything worthwhile, you've got to put in the time. There's some personal responsibility when it comes to looking good—and falling short will cost you time, money and, of course, style points.

Pay a Tailor,
Save Some Money

 

One of the biggest benefits of good tailoring is the cash you'll save in the long run. Ripped a hole in a beloved piece? Take it to get repaired instead of buying a new item. Found an awesome piece on sale that's a size too big? Have it taken in for a custom fit. Inherited a quality vintage piece? Have the proportions tailored for a more modern feel. Your tailor can fix busted zippers, lost buttons and will get you back into those pants that have become a bit too snug—meaning you can keep on wearing your best clothes for a fraction of the cost of buying a new wardrobe.

It's Not Just Suits

Even the laziest of men have their suits altered and trousers hemmed. But utilizing a tailor for the rest of the clothes in your closet is the real secret of the sharp dressed dudes you envy in street style shots. Think of it as the difference between being appropriately dressed and being stylishly dressed. Here are few pieces to consider customizing.

Outerwear

 

It's not just your sports coats and suit jackets that can be altered. Why not your leather or denim jackets or top coats? Have your outwear tailored—the waist can be taken in, the sleeves shortened and tapered. If an overcoat is too long, you can look short, so have it brought up to hit right above the knee.

 

Jeans

 

You don't want to alter jeans too much, but you can certainly have them shortened (ideally hemmed with a chain stitch). You can also add a slight taper to the end of the leg for a more of-the-moment fit. We wouldn't recommend messing with the waistband through—just opt for a belt.

 

Sweats

 

Now that you're spending top dollar on quality sweatpants, make sure they fit properly. You can have them shortened so they don't bunch around the ankles. If you want your sweatshirts to have a more vintage, retro fit, have the body and sleeves slimmed down.

 

Sleeves

 

This is one area that a tailor can really improve the look of your clothes—from your jackets and coats to button-down shirts. When your sleeves are too long or too full, you look sloppy. For those pieces you wear regularly, have the sleeves altered—narrowed at the shoulder, tapered or shortened—for a perfect fit.

Get Your Measurements

Once you find your tailor, have him take your full body measurements and keep them for yourself. This will help when buying clothes online especially, but can also help fend off over-zealous salesmen in stores.

Measurements to get:
- Neck
- Shoulders
- Chest
- Waist
- Hips & seat
- Sleeve length
- Wrist
- Biceps
- Inseam

What It Will Cost

- Standard pant hem ($8 to $12)
- Buttons replaced ($1 to $3 each)
- Jacket waist taken in ($30 to $45)
- Shirt taken in ($10 to $18)
- Shirt sleeves shortened ($12 to $20)
- Sleeve tapered ($15 to $20)